Beautiful Isles of Barra and Vatersay - 7th to 10th May 2025
- Steve McNickle
- May 9
- 6 min read
Updated: Jun 21
A quick introduction to the Islands we were told we had to visit...
Barra: The Island Where the Beach Is a Runway
Tucked into the outer reaches of the Hebrides, the Isle of Barra feels like a secret the Atlantic has been keeping. Best known for having the world’s only tidal beach airport, where planes land on the golden sands of Traigh Mhòr, Barra is an island that captures the imagination before you even arrive. But beyond the novelty of its arrival (if you're lucky enough to come by air!) lies a landscape of striking contrasts—lush machair meadows in summer, rugged hills, and beaches that rival the Caribbean when the sun breaks through (and we were fortunate on this aspect). Barra’s charm lies in its pace and purity: here, life unfolds slowly, and nature is never more than a glance away. You can cycle quiet coastal roads, kayak crystal-clear waters, or climb Heaval for a breathtaking panorama (which Steve did!) topped by the iconic statue of Our Lady of the Sea. Barra delivers!
Vatersay: The Edge of the Earth, Wrapped in Soft Sands
Connected to Barra by a short causeway, Vatersay can easily be overlooked—but don't. As the southernmost inhabited island in the Outer Hebrides, Vatersay has a rare, untouched quality. Its twin beaches—Bàgh Siar and Bàgh Bhatarsaigh—are sweeping, crescent-shaped bays of white sand lapped by turquoise waters. With fewer than 100 residents, Vatersay offers a solitude that feels sacred. History and tragedy echo in its landscapes, from the remains of Iron Age structures to the poignant memorial of the 1853 Annie Jane shipwreck. It’s a place where you can walk for hours and see more sheep than people, where every footstep feels like it matters. For those willing to take the time, Vatersay offers a connection not just to place, but to a deeper sense of peace.
Our journey to Barra
We left the Kilbride campsite, drove over the causeway to Eriksay and caught the CalMac ferry. Lesson learned on these smaller ferries - don't fill your Motorhome's fresh water tank (150 litres) before you go. We found the extra weight caused us to ground as we boarded. Not serious, but it doesn't sound good and gets you some interesting attention from the foot passangers!
The Amazing Coastal Campsite at Borve
The short drive from the port (Ardmhor) to our campsite in Borve took about 15 mins, and covered about half the Island!
When we arrived at the campsite, we were so lucky to be allocated a pitch right on the seafront, where we looked west over the Atlantic. No other shores for thousands of miles....
We were VERY happy with the views and setup!
See the slideshow of images below :). (I think you can tap them for some captions)
Soothing, Romantic Sunsets
We had heard that the sunsets can be exceptional at the campsite. Luckily for us, we were able to experience this with a front row view.
I tried to capture it with a camera, but as ever, you can only capture a fraction of the wonder and beauty of this planet.
I've shared a video below of the sunset on the first night, and then a slideshow gallery of selected images from over two nights. I've many more pictures... (PS - in the video you'll also see the cameraman going back and forth to take the stills!),
Visit to Traigh Eais Beach (5 mins away from Borve campsite)
Once settled, we set off to the nearest beach :-). A short walk across the field and Machair and we were there. The dogs were very happy - especially Archie, who I think was a fish in a previous life!
See the video below of the boys having fun on Traigh Beach..
The beach was beautiful, and had some amazing natural 'sand sculptures' as you can see below. They were like something man would have created in the desert, only scaled down!
Visiting Vatersay and the stunning beaches
The short drive from Borve to Vatersay is stunning. The single-track roads are virtually deserted, and you really feel at one with nature. The countryside is so picturesque, enhanced by the backdrop of the sea.
The colours of the sea are hard to describe, and whilst we tried to capture it in the photos, you really need to see it to believe it.
The images in the gallery below are from one of the beaches (Traigh a Bhaigh) on the Eastern side of the island. It was as good as any beach we visited on Antigua, without the 10 hour flight!
Barra Airport on Traigh Mhòr
When you think of a runway on a beach, you think of a narrow stretch of sand, well-marked and access-controlled. It's not like that!. It's a massive extent of beach, and when we arrived there were multiple cars down on the beach with 'locals' out digging for worms or something. They obviously knew where they could and couldn't go as they were still out there when the aircraft were coming and going!
There are only 3-4 flights in and out per day, so you need to check the timetable to ensure you see one of them when you visit. It's popular, as when we arrived, there were already many motorhomes, vans, and cars in place with the occupants ready for the entertainment.
See video below for a quick overview of the airport and runway!
See below several images of the airport
If you're interested in seeing the complete take off sequence from the beach (:0)) - see video below:
The Stunning Traigh Eais Beach
Once we'd enjoyed watching the aircraft, we ventured across the Machair to Traigh Eais beach. This is one of the best beaches I have ever seen. The sand is amazing, the beach is beautifully curved, and the water is crystal clear. We were truly stunned by its beauty. We attempted to capture it with both video and pictures, which are presented below. If you think it looks good, multiply your thinking by 10 times and you'll get close to what it's like.
The stunning Traigh Eais beach
Having fun with the boys below
Climbing Heaval: Barra’s Peak with a Heavenly View
Standing at 383 metres (1,257 feet), Heaval may not be a giant by mountain standards, but it dominates the Barra skyline and rewards anyone who takes the time to climb it, i.e. Steve! The ascent is short but steep, making it a satisfying challenge for casual hikers and seasoned ramblers alike. I began my climb from the roadside layby near Castlebay—the route is unmarked but well-worn, threading up grassy slopes and rocky outcrops toward the summit.
Just a third of the way up, is one of Barra’s most iconic sights: the statue of Our Lady of the Sea, a white marble figure of the Virgin Mary looking out over the island and its surrounding ocean. It’s a perfect pause point, offering sweeping views back toward Castlebay, Kisimul Castle, and the curve of the harbour.
From there, the path becomes more rugged, but the summit is only about 45–60 minutes from the start. At the top, the panorama is breathtaking. On a clear day, you can see across the Sound of Barra to Eriskay, South Uist, and even the Cuillin mountains on Skye. The wind may whip around you, but the silence—broken only by seabirds—feels immense and ancient.
They say that Heaval isn’t just a hill; it’s a spiritual experience, a perfect metaphor for Barra itself: modest in scale, but rich in soul and spectacle.
See the slideshow below for some pictures from my ascent!
Castlebay
Nestled on the southern shores of Barra, Castlebay is the island’s vibrant little hub—where crofting tradition meets seafaring charm. The village gets its name from the dramatic Kisimul Castle, which rises straight out of the sea on a rocky islet in the centre of the bay. At high tide, it appears to float like something from folklore, and the sight of the CalMac ferry from Oban gliding past its stone walls is one of the most iconic images in the Hebrides. Castlebay is the cultural and social heart of the island with cosy cafés, a heritage centre, a well-stocked community shop, and even a cinema that doubles as a village hall. It’s a place where locals wave to passing cars (we had lots of island friends who waved at us :-)).
For us, we had a great take-away from Cafe Kisimul (Indian cuisine) and would recommend.
Whether you're boarding a boat to explore nearby islands, grabbing a seafood lunch with views of the harbour, or listening to live traditional music in the evening light, Castlebay offers a warm welcome and a strong sense of place.
Leaving Barra
With a heavy heart, we had to leave Barra and start the journey back to the mainland. It was a magical experience, helped immensely by the weather which was glorious throughout.
We will be back and would recommend it to anyone, especially if you can get the weather!
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