North Berwick: Our entry to Scotland!

A quick Introduction to North Berwick - Coastal Charm and Seaside Soul!

North Berwick (just a 30-minute train ride from Edinburgh!) is one of Scotland’s most charming seaside towns, where Victorian elegance meets salty sea air and wild island views. It has golden beaches a cobbled high street, colourful harbour, and independent cafés serving up everything from fish and chips to award-winning gelato.

Dominating the skyline is the volcanic plug of Berwick Law, offering a short, steep climb and panoramic views over the Firth of Forth. Just offshore, the bird-laden cliffs of the Bass Rock—home to the world’s largest colony of northern gannets—gleam white in the sun.

Venture beyond North Berwick, and the wider East Lothian coast reveals a patchwork of dramatic cliffs, sweeping bays, and historic treasures. Just minutes away lies Tantallon Castle, a spectacular semi-ruined fortress clinging to red sandstone cliffs, with views across the sea to the Bass Rock. Inland, rolling farmland hides hidden gems like Dirleton Castle, while the John Muir Way offers miles of coastal walking and cycling. Golfers are spoiled with world-class courses, including the famous Muirfield, while families can explore rock pools at Yellowcraig Beach or enjoy a slower pace at Aberlady Bay nature reserve. With its blend of dramatic scenery, accessible adventures, and rich heritage, North Berwick and its surroundings offer one of Scotland’s most rewarding short breaks, where the coast always calls, and every path leads to a view!

Short journey from Embleton to North Berwick Campsite

Lovely drive alongside the NE coast of Northumberland and into East Lothian.

We had a short scenic drive to North Berwick, where we stayed at the Tantallon Camping and Caravan Park, which has an amazing location overlooking the Firth of Forth, Bass Rock and up to Berwick Plug.

It wasn't busy and we had a great pitch as you can see below, with Bass Rock in the background:

Below you can see close up of Base Rock, home to over 150,000 gannets during the peak breeding season, making it the largest gannet colony in the world! Other seabirds like shags, guillemots, and razorbills also nest on the rock.

The island has a long and varied past. It was once inhabited by a hermit named Baldred in the 6th century, who established a monastery nearby. Later, a castle was built, which was used as a prison in the 17th century, holding Covenanters and Jacobites. The lighthouse was built in 1902.

Looking back across the campsite below to the North Berwick Law - a distinctive, 187-meter (614-foot) high conical hill, a geological feature known as a volcanic plug. It was formed when magma cooled and solidified within a volcano's vent. The surrounding softer rock was eroded by glaciers, creating the distinctive "crag and tail" shape, with a steep crag and a sloping tail. This process is estimated to have occurred around 335 million years ago.

Apparently the summit has been used as a lookout point since the 18th century, with relics remaining from the Napoleonic Wars and World War II.

A replica whale's jawbone has been a landmark on the summit for over 250 years, replacing earlier sets of jawbones!

Below you can see the beautiful North Berwick coastal town in the background, It's a short 20 minute wander across the golf course, and along the beach to the town and harbour. Yet again, the weather was stunning!

North Berwick Beach walk to Town

The walk across the beach to North Berwick is stunning. Lovely beach, rock pools, views across the Firth of Forth. Our boys (dogs) had a ball. We even took the risk of letting Ted (our Black Lab) off the lead to play in the water {risk in that he was recovering from a broken leg and we had to keep him 'calm' - not so easy.....!}.

Looking across to North Berwick from our 'home'

Looking across the beach and sea front from golf course/campsite to North Berwick

Looking back East from the same view point as above

Love this picture of Archie - paused and ready for action when we next throw his ball!

Very proud of his little self for getting his ball!

Ted - still on his flexi-lead.....

Looking back from harbour to the Motorhome on the hill in the distance!

Ted off the lead

We took the risk and let him off his lead. Wonderful to see him enjoying the freedom and the water (cold helping his leg I'm sure). See video below and you can tell he's very happy :-)

This is joy!

North Berwick Harbour Cream Tea

Well, it had to be done!

Cream tea and cake on the harbour cafe at te Seabird Centre. Very nice!

The old weather barometer in the harbour wall

We only had a couple of days at North Berwick, and we could have stayed longer. The town is very pretty, lovely little shops and people very friendly. If you're in that part of Scotland we would certainly recommend a visit!